Wednesday, December 5, 2007

A Gaijin's Guide to Japanese Baths


"天国だ” (tengoku da, this is heaven) is what we found ourselves saying when my dad and I slipped into the piping hot bath or sento. Now this might be up for some contention, what with falling in love and winning a marathon and that shit, but I think going from being naked in below freezing temperatures to being in a really hot bath is probably the best feeling in the world. Now if you're in Japan, you're going to have a couple of bathing options:
1. 温泉 onsen, or hot spring
2. 銭湯 sento, or public bath
3. Take a bath (ofuro) at home
4. Take a shower (BOOOOOO!)

The bath I go to with my dad is kind of a mix of the first three. It's mainly a sentou because we don't have it all to ourselves, but it is semi-private because we have to use a key to get in, and it's also fed by the kakumaonsen (kakuma hot springs). So really, any of onsen, sento, and ofuro is correct, so we just call it the ofuro.



Alright, now it's time to head to the sento. First thing upon entering is you'll have to take off your shoes and put them in the in the shoe racks, as with anywhere in Japan. Next, you'll have to strip down and put all of your clothes and accessories in whatever storage area your particular sento provides, be it baskets or cubbies or boxes. Whatever you do, DON'T BE AWKWARD when taking off your clothes. It will really show that you are uncomfortable with Japanese bathing traditions, and make everyone else uncomfortable too. Just be naked and enjoy it! Now if you're going to the bathhouse, there are some key materials you need to bring with you:



From left to right: large bath towel for drying, smaller long towel for use as a washcloth, soap, shampoo, conditioner, toothbrush, Crest toothpaste with Scope (and Whitening!), and dentist approved hygienic toothpicks. Additionally, you will need a bathing bucket (senmenki), but you will always be able to find one at the sento.




A foreigner might be perplexed by the length of the washcloth used in Japan. The American counterpart is usually a fifth of the length, but we still get clean don't we? Well, this way, like most Japanese things, is just better. You put soap on the long towel, then grab the ends with both hands and wash your body like a shoe shiner polishing shoes. You will happily discover that there is no spot you can't reach. This cleaning can take place either before or after your first dip in the bath, depending on the formality. You always want to at least wet yourself down using the bucket (or shower heads if available), before entering, and also make sure you WASH OFF ALL SOAP before getting in. Just remember, it's everyone's water. Be respectful.



Getting in the bath will be a struggle at first because it will be VERY HOT, especially to foreigner. The hot water usually comes out of some sort of decorative rock structure or wood carving. It should be easy to find. If you're worried about the heat, try to sit opposite the source of the hot water. There's also usually a spigot for cold water, in order to lower the temperature of the bath. NEVER USE COLD WATER. If you can't take the heat, get out of Japan. Japanese people usually like the bath to be as hot as possible, and if it's too hot someone else will turn on the cold water. If you use it, you inconvenience everyone else, and you make yourself look like even more of a gaijin (foreigner).

It's alright to take your time to get in, and when you finally get settled, try saying something like tengoku da (this is heaven) or ii kimochi (this feels great). Talking to people at the public bath is great fun, and I highly recommend it. You can meet all kinds of people you wouldn't run into on a daily basis. For example, my dad's middle school math teacher frequents the same bath we do, so we often see him and talk about my dad's school days and the state of Japanese education. The other day, we bathed with a guy who remembered bathing with me last time I was there, a year and a half ago. Being naked in a hot tub together is a special bond, and one that should be cherished.

After your initial dip, it's time to wash your hair and brush your teeth. These are pretty straightforward procedures, just follow the general rule of "nothing in the bath but water and people." So be careful with your sudsy hands. There are faucets on the sides for clean water to use to brush your teeth. You can also shave in front of one of the mirrors, just make sure you don't cut yourself, it's a mess and it makes the bath really unsanitary. After you're done all that, take a dentally hygienic toothpick and clean your teeth back in the tub. Very satisfying.

Now before we leave the sento, I'm going to cover two of the more embarrassing situations that can arise at a public bath:

1. You really have to pee. I can't stress enough how important it is to PEE BEFORE GOING TO THE BATH. You will really have no choice but to hold it, which will make your bathing experience a challenge rather than a relaxing time. I know there are drains all over the room, but just don't think about it. If you can't hold it, leave early and find a toilet or somewhere outside. It's like that prank where you put someone's hand in warm water, except it's your whole body. It will take all of your willpower to hold it. Just go before.

2. Involuntary erection. I'm sorry to be crude, but this is a legitimate threat. Warm soapy water spread on certain erogenous zones can cause blood to flow to certain places. Now, if you feel you might have one coming, don't take any chances and get in the water. Its nearly impossible (and extremely painful) to spring one in really hot water, but as an additional defensive maneuver think about something both interesting, and non-sexual, like your favorite football team or that episode of Emeril you saw last month. I've never had this happen, but I can only imagine the social fallout.



Okay. Now that you know how to avert disaster, you can safely leave your sento and head out for a drink. Me and my dad always go to this nice family bar run by one of his friends. I recommend having a hot cup of tea followed by a nice cold beer (Asahi Super Dry is a good one). We always leave for the bath at around 10:30 PM, so it's a great way to end your night and it really prepares you for bed. Nothing tastes better than a post-bath beer. Kanpai!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

A blog! Fascinating. This pleases me. Please to enjoy your time in the Japan.

Unknown said...

Nice, makes me nostalgic for Japan and my Sunday evening soak at the sento.